Some cities have looks, other cities have personality. The sevillanos – lucky devils – get both courtesy of their flamboyant, charismatic and ever-evolving Andalusian metropolis. Like all great cities it has historical layers. Roman ruins and memories of the Moorish era flicker like medieval engravings in the Santa Cruz quarter while the riverside Arenal reeks of lost colonial glory. Yet one of the most remarkable things about modern Sevilla is its ability to adapt and etch fresh new brushstrokes onto an ancient canvas.